DIFFERENT TYPES OF LEATHER


In selecting leather for any project or purchasing ready made products,
it is very important to understand the various types of leather
available on the market and their processes.

This guide will attempt to define, in general terms, the many different
types of leather and their processes. Consumers are encouraged to ask
questions and become familiar with these terms before making an investment
in any project. Most leather product resellers don`t have a clue about
the different types of leathers or their tanning process because they
simply do not have the experience. We know leather!


Full Grain or Top Grain Leather

This is the upper layer of the hide which is split into layers by a splitting
machine to various thicknesses. This outer layer will show natural
scars and hair cell patterns if left as uncorrected natural grain.
The thickness can vary, depending on the gauge set at the time of splitting
and the application. Thereafter, the hides can be colored and given various
finishes. Leather can be produced for Upholstery, Garment, Shoe
or Saddlers, this is the best, strongest and most durable layer of the hide.


 Corrected or Embossed Grain

Full Grain hides that show an excessive amount of scratches or scars
are further processed by "correcting" the natural grain.
After splitting to the required thickness, this natural grain is buffed or sanded,
replaced with an embossed grain and finish to simulate various hair cell
patterns. Thus the effect will look flawless with no natural scars showing,
but this is no longer the natural grain. The original feel or hand
of the natural skins durability is reduced with the synthetic grain finish.
Many applications for shoe and handbag leather are embossed with
unique exotic prints to stimulate the look.


Suede Splits

The second layer or lower layer of the skin left after removal of the
Full Grain is the Split Suede and will be suede on both sides.
This will come in various thicknesses depending on the application,
as this is a by product of hide tanning it is less costly and utilized in
products where Full Grain is not required, such as moccasins, suede garments,
handbags and tool pouches etc...
This layer of the skin can be further processed by the synthetic finish
and hair cell on one side of the suede to create the look of
Full Grain leather, known as "Finished Split" hide.
This type of leather is used extensively in lower cost furniture and
garments and represented as "Genuine Leather".


 Nubuck Suede Grain

This Full Grain layer of the skin is given a suede effect by lightly sanding
the natural grain to open the hair cell and results in a velvety suede
feel. This is also corrects imperfections in the natural grain and although
soft to the touch, it is a sensitive effect. Care must be taken against
soiling or staining as it is difficult to clean. This effect is utilized in many
garment and upholstery products as well as shoes.


 Bonded Leather

Also known as reconstructed or fiber leather. Remnants from garment
and shoe factories are ground into a dust and bonded with an

adhesive to form the "Pressed wood or Particle Board of leather".
It is comprised of at least 80% leather fiber and is represented as
"Genuine Leather". It consists of collagen fibers obtained from macerated
hide pieces bonded with latex binders constructed into a fibrous
mat to create a look and feel similar or sometimes identical to that
of genuine leather but at a fraction of the cost. Applications include low
priced garment and upholstery products. We have had much success
with this product in the manufacture of low end belts.

Bonded leather industries could be considered as environmentally
and ecologically friendly because they use recycled leather scraps.
In fact, these scraps are very difficult to eliminate.

 Tanning Processes

All leathers (except rawhide) go through one of the following tanning processes:

Chrome Tanned
This process uses soluble chromium salts, primarily chromium sulfate,
to tan leather. Beautiful quality leather is consistent in color and
grade and offers a great yield.
Ideal for: Horse collars, liners, pouches, bags

Vegetable Tanned
Vegetable materials derived primarily from tree bark and various
other plants are used during this tanning process.

Latigo
Vegetable tanned latigo is firm strap leather with an exceptional degree
of strength and durability, which is ideal for straps, bags and any
tough outdoor gear. It is also used for horse gear such as reins, stirrups,
tie downs and lace. After tanning, sides are drum died then dipped
in hot oils and hand rubbed to a beautiful finish. Sides average 25 sq. ft.

Alum Tanned
Colourless aluminum salts are used to tan this leather that is
primarily used for lace leather.

Chrome Oil Tanned
This leather is simply chrome tanned (as described above) and
then treated with an oil hat helps to preserve the leather.
Beautiful, durable leather has the right amount of oil for a soft supple feel.
Ideal for: Work chaps, saddle bags and linings.

Veg Chrome Tanned
This leather is vegetable tanned (as described above) and
then re-tanned in chromium salts.

Chrome Veg Retanned
This leather is chrome tanned (as described above) and then vegetable tanned.

Brain Tanned
Usually game leathers like deer, moose and elk are tanned using
hand scraping and natural tanning agents, brains and smoke.

The result is a very soft chamois like leather known as buckskin --
not to be confused with Buckskin COLOR.
Other names are "brain tanned" buckskin, "Indian tanned",
"home tanned", "smoke tanned", "deer tanned"
and there`s probably a few more!

Though very soft and comfortable to wear, buckskin is also very tough
and durable. This is one of the oldest ways of tanning hides that
people have developed.
This method was used all over the world at one time or another.



Many Blessings -